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Why now is the time to discover South Korea’s charming second city

Busan’s ancient culture, laid-back warmth and excellent seafood should guarantee it a spot on every traveller’s itinerary

Where Koreans are concerned, the dynamic seaside city of Busan has long been South Korea’s best-kept secret. Now, however, the rest of the world is starting to catch on.
Home to 3.4 million people, this pint-sized port city is famous for its wealth of beaches, making it one of the nation’s top summer getaways – though there’s plenty to it beyond sand and surf. It’s also a kinetic, 21st-century Asian metropolis home to ancient mountains, buzzing street markets, labyrinthian hillside neighbourhoods, ornate Buddhist temples, and some of the freshest seafood in the country.
Like most second cities, it has its own distinct character, and despite the glimmering new high-rises, immaculate subway system, digital billboards, and other trappings of hyper-modernity, Busan has never forgotten its rough-and-tumble port-town roots. Its residents are similarly straightforward – more likely to wear their hearts on their sleeves than their capital city peers, known throughout Korea for their warmth, toughness and colourful local dialect – Busan satoori.
And though Seoul has much to recommend it, there’s a strong argument to be made that it is, in fact, Busan which holds the greater tourist appeal. For starters, its climate is milder and its prices lower, plus there’s its obvious ocean-side allure, a burgeoning food scene – and even a roster of world-class events like the Busan International Film Festival.
International visitors are starting to take note: between January and June last year, 733,600 foreign tourists visited Busan; in the same period this year, that number almost doubled, to a whopping 1.38 million. At last, Busan is giving its big city sister a run for its money on the world stage – and as it finally steps into the limelight, there’s never been a better time to visit.
Penned in by rugged coastline and the Nakdong River Delta, Busan is a city built around water and imposing mountains that rise up from the urban landscape like stony sentinels. For a glimpse into the city’s storied past, head to Nampo-dong, the harbour district where Busan was originally founded as a maritime trading post and fishing village. During the Korean War, the neighbourhood was flooded with refugees who settled in shanties on the surrounding hillsides and traded goods at Jagalchi, Gukje and Bupyeong Markets, which are still thriving today.
Centrally located Seomyeon is the downtown and financial district, while the cafés, pubs, and eateries around Gwangalli Beach make it Busan’s hippest zone. It’s Haeundae, however, that brings most visitors to town. This one-mile stretch of sand is a magnet for holidaymakers during the summer when it transforms into a sea of red parasols, and the adjacent neighbourhood hosts scores of restaurants, shops and hotels, as well as bars and clubs that pop off all year round.
As a coastal town, the sea is Busan’s main attraction, so head to Songdo Beach and ride the Busan Air Cruise cable car to nearby Amnam Park, where you can stroll amongst the pines and listen to the waves. Pop over to Huinnyeoul Culture Village on Yeongdo Island, where tiny alabaster and blue houses perch on a bluff overlooking the water.
For one of the city’s best views, ride the lift to the top of South Korea’s second-highest skyscraper, Haeundae LCT The Sharp, where an observation deck – Busan X the Sky – offers spectacular views of the urban tapestry below, as well as the expanse of the East Sea (on a clear day, you can even make out the spine of Japan’s Tsushima Island in the distance). Once you’re back on the ground, hop on the Busan Sky Capsule and watch the sunlight dance off the waves as you cruise above the rocky shoreline at the base of Dalmaji Hill.
Like their Japanese neighbours, Koreans are crazy about baseball, and attending a Lotte Giants game is as much a party as a sports event. Don’t know much about the sport? No problem – it’s impossible not to get swept up by the atmosphere, with chants, singing and dancing cheerleaders, all accompanied by plenty of fried chicken and ice-cold beer.
For a quieter dose of culture, head for Haedong Yonggungsa, a breathtaking Buddhist temple built on rocks overlooking the ocean – one of just two seaside temples in Korea – or strap on your hiking boots and trek to the top of Mt Geumjeongsan, home to Geumjeongsanseong Fortress, built in the early 1700s in response to repeated foreign invasions. Afterwards, unwind over a bowl of makgeolli rice wine and black goat bulgogi at one of the family-owned restaurants at the Sanseong Village, situated in a picturesque valley at the top of the mountain.
Finally, pay your respects to the fallen at the UN Memorial Cemetery (unmck.or.kr), where foreign soldiers who fought in the Korean War are buried, including 892 men hailing from the UK. A walk through its tranquil grounds serves as a timely reminder of the sacrifice made by so many to ensure the freedom and prosperity that modern South Korea enjoys today.
For seafood, look no further than Jagalchi Market, the 600-year-old exchange that is Busan’s living, breathing heart. Its buzzing concourse is home to vendors selling sea life in all of its scaly, finned and tentacled glory.
Despite being a fish town, Busan’s signature dish is actually dwaeji gukbap, a savoury pork soup. Just a short walk from the UN Cemetery is the legendary Ssangdungi Dwaeji gukbap, which serves up rich, satisfying bowls, along with generous, all-you-can-eat side dishes of peppery kimchi and kkakdugi (radish kimchi).
There’s also no shortage of great barbecue places here. Splurge on a meal of prime Hanwoo beef at Haeundae Amso Galbijip, which has been grilling ribs since 1964, or opt for pork at Oh Banjang, a popular meat joint also located in Haeundae.
For drinks, head to Gwangalli Beach, which offers some of the city’s best nightlife options, as well as a terrific drone show on Saturday nights. Sip a cold beer while marvelling at the span of the Gwangan Diamond Bridge from the fun and friendly HQ Bar, or linger over an expertly-crafted cocktail at Joseph Bar. For the ultimate Busan experience, end the night at Seomyeon’s Pojangmacha Street, where you’re welcome to sit in one of the many drinking tents and mingle with locals while nibbling on side dishes washed down with a soju, Korea’s national firewater.
Korean Air has daily nonstop flights from London Heathrow to Seoul’s Incheon Airport from £840 return. From there, it’s a 43-minute train ride to Seoul Station via the Airport Express. At Seoul Station, take the KTX high-speed train onwards to Busan Station, which takes about two and half hours.
The five-star Westin Josun (doubles from £180) is the granddaddy of Busan luxury hotels, situated at the western edge of Haeundae Beach; the newly built Ramada Encore by Wyndham Busan Haeundae (doubles from £86) is a good-value option that’s five minutes from the beach; while Seomyeon’s centrally-located Lotte Hotel (doubles from £166) is a mainstay for both business travellers and tourists.

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